QUICK PICKER NO A2 HYPE

Which microSD do you actually need? Start with the job.

Speed badges sell cards; the workload decides which one survives. Pick your use case below for the right grade and speed class — and skip the ratings you're being upsold.

Recommended: High-endurance or pSLCC10 / U3 / V30 · high-endurance TLC or pSLC

These cameras overwrite around the clock. A consumer card wears out in months and fails silently — you find out when the footage isn't there. Endurance, not speed badges, is what keeps it recording.

  • Endurance (TBW / P/E) — the number that decides months vs. years
  • V30 / U3 sustained write for steady 4K
  • Skip A2 — it rates random IO and does nothing for continuous video
  • −25 ~ 85°C if it lives in a hot car or outdoors
Recommended: Standard C10 / U1–U3C10 / U1 (U3 for 4K phone video) · A1/A2 useful here

Light, occasional writes — so capacity and value matter more than endurance. This is the one place the A1/A2 app-performance rating actually earns its keep, because the card runs apps and loads files.

  • Capacity first — pick the size you actually need
  • A1 / A2 does help here (app launch, random reads)
  • U3 / V30 only if you shoot 4K on the device
  • Verify real capacity on cheap high-capacity cards
Recommended: High-speed V30 (and verify it's real)C10 / U3 / V30 (V60/V90 for high-bitrate 4K/8K)

Short, intense high-bitrate bursts need sustained write headroom, not just a fast label. Counterfeit and over-spec'd cards are rampant here — and the footage you lose is unrepeatable, so verify capacity before the shoot.

  • V30 / U3 minimum; V60 / V90 for high-bitrate 4K/8K
  • Sustained write speed > peak — that's what avoids dropped frames
  • Verify true capacity with H2testw (fakes are common)
  • Enough endurance for long continuous sessions

B2B wholesale — distributors, resellers and OEMs. Recommendations are general guidance; tell us the device and volume for a spec'd quote.